Iceland 2019
The plan for 2019 was to take a small group of family to the Ozark Mountains. An affordable, relatively easy fall getaway to an area of the country we've never visited.
That plan went awry.
That plan went awry.
There are three people to blame for this immense change of plans: My wife, my uncle, and Thomas Rhett. Last year, while driving the California coast on our West Coast Trip, Thomas Rhett's Die a Happy Man came on in my Uncle's Camaro, and he couldn't help but share the coincidence that he sings about taking a sports car up the coast of California. The song also mentions seeing the Eiffel Tower at night, which many of us have done, and then he sings about seeing the Northern Lights. That was a bucket list item that not a single one of us had accomplished. Fast forward many months: I'm innocently enough researching the Ozarks for our upcoming fall trip, when my wife proposed Iceland to complete the Thomas Rhett song by trying to see the Northern Lights. I vividly remember being shocked and surprised, and acknowledging that I didn't know a damn thing about Iceland! I don't recall what exactly changed my mind, but if I were to speculate, I most likely searched Google for Iceland and saw something like this:
So that settled that, and planning began!
As it turned out, the travel aspect of Iceland was reasonably priced (relatively speaking), which was a welcome surprise. Where Iceland proves expensive is with food and any sort of paid excursions or tours. With research and planning, we were able to skip any sort of paid tour and keep our costs manageable.
The decision was made to spend a week on the Island, exploring most of the south. We would fly in over night, and drive across the island that first day. We would stay two nights on the southeast corner, then two nights in the center, and our final two nights in Reykjavik on the southwest corner near the airport.
Lots more planning... lots more planning... booking flights... booking hotels... booking rental 4x4 SUV's... lots more planning... buying waterproof winter hiking clothes.... lots more planning...
And We're Off!!! Our group grew to an impressive 12 people, ranging from 24 to 78 years old!
Since I'm finally starting the trip report, I should mention that I'm going to include some unnecessary details. In the 2 days I've been home, I've spoke with nearly a dozen people interested in doing a similar trip. I'm hoping that our details may help others plan a trip similar to this one, and have as great a time as we did. Right off the bat, lets get some FAQ's out of the way:
1) Everyone we interacted with spoke wonderful English. The language barrier was never an issue whatsoever.
2) Most of us had Verizon, and service was great. Slow at times, but I can't recall when we every were completely without reception.
3) We chose late October because of peak Northern Lights season, yet still moderate weather. Anything is possible this time of year in Iceland, and a few articles of clothing are 100% necessary: A great base layer for warmth, sturdy waterproof hiking boots, and a waterproof and windproof(!!!) outer layer. Late October is well on it's way to the off season, so the crowds were much less than summer but the island is still generally snow/ice free.
4) I made an itinerary for this trip (attached to the end of this web page). The intention wasn't to have a strict plan, but rather so we didn't miss anything amazing, and could easily meet up if we got separated. As it turned out, the weather and timing allowed us to follow the itinerary almost 100% of the time.
My group flew from Cleveland to JFK, while others flew from South Carolina and Cincinnati. After many of us headed into Manhattan for our long layover, we all met back up at JFK, where the entire group of 12 managed to book the exact same flight into Iceland. The theory is always sound: get sleep on the overnight flight, because we'll be off and running as soon as we land! Since we gain 4 hours in time changes, the 5 hour flight didn't allow for hardly any sleep. I think a few of our group got an hour or two, but the majority pulled an all-nighter.
(Unnecessary Details): We flew with Delta, and had a fine experience. JFK was a bit of a pain, but that's to be expected I suppose.
As it turned out, the travel aspect of Iceland was reasonably priced (relatively speaking), which was a welcome surprise. Where Iceland proves expensive is with food and any sort of paid excursions or tours. With research and planning, we were able to skip any sort of paid tour and keep our costs manageable.
The decision was made to spend a week on the Island, exploring most of the south. We would fly in over night, and drive across the island that first day. We would stay two nights on the southeast corner, then two nights in the center, and our final two nights in Reykjavik on the southwest corner near the airport.
Lots more planning... lots more planning... booking flights... booking hotels... booking rental 4x4 SUV's... lots more planning... buying waterproof winter hiking clothes.... lots more planning...
And We're Off!!! Our group grew to an impressive 12 people, ranging from 24 to 78 years old!
Since I'm finally starting the trip report, I should mention that I'm going to include some unnecessary details. In the 2 days I've been home, I've spoke with nearly a dozen people interested in doing a similar trip. I'm hoping that our details may help others plan a trip similar to this one, and have as great a time as we did. Right off the bat, lets get some FAQ's out of the way:
1) Everyone we interacted with spoke wonderful English. The language barrier was never an issue whatsoever.
2) Most of us had Verizon, and service was great. Slow at times, but I can't recall when we every were completely without reception.
3) We chose late October because of peak Northern Lights season, yet still moderate weather. Anything is possible this time of year in Iceland, and a few articles of clothing are 100% necessary: A great base layer for warmth, sturdy waterproof hiking boots, and a waterproof and windproof(!!!) outer layer. Late October is well on it's way to the off season, so the crowds were much less than summer but the island is still generally snow/ice free.
4) I made an itinerary for this trip (attached to the end of this web page). The intention wasn't to have a strict plan, but rather so we didn't miss anything amazing, and could easily meet up if we got separated. As it turned out, the weather and timing allowed us to follow the itinerary almost 100% of the time.
My group flew from Cleveland to JFK, while others flew from South Carolina and Cincinnati. After many of us headed into Manhattan for our long layover, we all met back up at JFK, where the entire group of 12 managed to book the exact same flight into Iceland. The theory is always sound: get sleep on the overnight flight, because we'll be off and running as soon as we land! Since we gain 4 hours in time changes, the 5 hour flight didn't allow for hardly any sleep. I think a few of our group got an hour or two, but the majority pulled an all-nighter.
(Unnecessary Details): We flew with Delta, and had a fine experience. JFK was a bit of a pain, but that's to be expected I suppose.
We landed just before sunrise, and were off to pickup our rental cars immediately after loading up on caffeine. We all decided to get 4x4 SUV's... The extra cost was marginal, and we would be sure to have space for our luggage, as well as the ability to travel on dirt roads when necessary. Snow was unlikely this early in the season, but all our rentals came equipped with snow tires just in case.
(Unnecessary Details): My group rented from ProCar through Booking.com. Highly recommended! We got nice new Mazda CX-5's that ran flawlessly, and when the time came to return them, Procar was quick and painless. Only catch is that they charge your credit card a significant damage deposit if you don't buy their insurance. This proved an issue to me since my travel card has an international limit. We worked through the issue, and hit the road! After we returned the cars, they refunded the full damage deposit.
A few miles up the road and a few minutes later, the remainder of our group pulled into a roadside pull-off behind me, and our 4 SUV caravan for the week had assembled! GAME ON!
I passed out an itinerary to each car in case we got separated (not much of an issue in the off-season; we were often the only cars for miles), and we were off to our first stop, a waterfall about two hours up the road. This first day was our longest driving day; we were set to cross the entire island, but were planning on breaking the drive up with several scenic stops along the way.
We took the coastal road (427) rather than the main road for most of this stretch, just to get a more interesting introduction to the country. We immediately passed vast plains, odd lava fields, cliffs and mountains, beautiful beaches, and most notably, vast expanses of nothing. No other cars, no buildings, just us and really, really weird nature. Eventually we arrived at Seljalandsfoss; a collection of three 200' high waterfalls, including one with a hiking path behind and around it, and one inside a cave.
(Unnecessary Details): My group rented from ProCar through Booking.com. Highly recommended! We got nice new Mazda CX-5's that ran flawlessly, and when the time came to return them, Procar was quick and painless. Only catch is that they charge your credit card a significant damage deposit if you don't buy their insurance. This proved an issue to me since my travel card has an international limit. We worked through the issue, and hit the road! After we returned the cars, they refunded the full damage deposit.
A few miles up the road and a few minutes later, the remainder of our group pulled into a roadside pull-off behind me, and our 4 SUV caravan for the week had assembled! GAME ON!
I passed out an itinerary to each car in case we got separated (not much of an issue in the off-season; we were often the only cars for miles), and we were off to our first stop, a waterfall about two hours up the road. This first day was our longest driving day; we were set to cross the entire island, but were planning on breaking the drive up with several scenic stops along the way.
We took the coastal road (427) rather than the main road for most of this stretch, just to get a more interesting introduction to the country. We immediately passed vast plains, odd lava fields, cliffs and mountains, beautiful beaches, and most notably, vast expanses of nothing. No other cars, no buildings, just us and really, really weird nature. Eventually we arrived at Seljalandsfoss; a collection of three 200' high waterfalls, including one with a hiking path behind and around it, and one inside a cave.
About a half an hour up the road we stop once more at Skogafoss. We went to an adjacent cafe first for a lunch of burgers or fish and chips, before heading off on the hike at the falls.
Skogafoss is an immense 80 foot wide, 200 foot tall falls. If you can brave the mist, you can walk all the way up to the base of it. Alternatively, if you're up for a bit of cardio, you can climb the trail up the side of the falls and get a view from the top. The trail followed the stunning river upstream for who-knows how far. We went a little ways up and the scenery was unbelievable.
Skogafoss is an immense 80 foot wide, 200 foot tall falls. If you can brave the mist, you can walk all the way up to the base of it. Alternatively, if you're up for a bit of cardio, you can climb the trail up the side of the falls and get a view from the top. The trail followed the stunning river upstream for who-knows how far. We went a little ways up and the scenery was unbelievable.
After our lunch and waterfall hike, we hit the road for another hour to our next stop in Þjóðvegur at the Eldraun Lava Field. This is a small scenic overlook on the main road, good for a 15 minute stretch and a short walk on some of the strangest terrain I've ever seen: Pillow sized lumps of harsh lava rocks, covered in thick, soft moss.
Fun Facts: This lava field played host to the Apollo 11 crew, as they trained for walking on the moon!
Fun Facts: This lava field played host to the Apollo 11 crew, as they trained for walking on the moon!
At this point we can add "Huge Glaciers" to our list of spectacular sights on our very first day in Iceland; as there are three glaciers very visible from the main road along the south of the island.
One more hour of driving, and we arrive at our home for the next two nights: Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. The hotel was beautiful, and situated in a desolate space between the mountains an the ocean. The prime location was within half an hour of Skaftafell National Park to the west, and Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon to the east. There was a nicer restaurant, as well as a more casual bar (with bar food), and the rooms were large and modern. They even offer a "Northern Lights Wakeup Call", where they will call your room if the Aurora Borealis makes an appearance. We managed to stay awake for dinner in the restaurant, before crashing hard after about 36 hours awake and on the move.
One more hour of driving, and we arrive at our home for the next two nights: Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. The hotel was beautiful, and situated in a desolate space between the mountains an the ocean. The prime location was within half an hour of Skaftafell National Park to the west, and Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon to the east. There was a nicer restaurant, as well as a more casual bar (with bar food), and the rooms were large and modern. They even offer a "Northern Lights Wakeup Call", where they will call your room if the Aurora Borealis makes an appearance. We managed to stay awake for dinner in the restaurant, before crashing hard after about 36 hours awake and on the move.
After no middle-of-the-night wake up calls, we all manage to wake up refreshed in the morning and enjoyed the huge breakfast spread in the hotel. Today we would head east to the fishing town of Höfn; our first stop was just up the road though, at the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. The lagoon collects icebergs off of the huge Vatnajokul glacier, before spitting them out into the ocean. The icebergs of all sizes were being forced around by the changing tides, and they were completely mesmerizing to watch. You can hike as much as you want here; the glacier itself is something like 3 miles away. That being said, the beautiful landscape, floating icebergs, and occasional seal, all led to us make very little progress. Options here (besides hiking) include large or small boat tours, kayak trips, and even driving tours onto the Glacier.
If that wasn't impressive enough, crossing the street lands you on Diamond Beach; a black sand beach littered with icebergs being forced ashore by the currents. We managed to time it exactly right, and crossed the street to the beach just as the tides changed, forcing all the collected ice out into the ocean. Again, we could walk as far as we wanted up the beach, but the experience was so impressive, no one made it very far.
We eventually pried ourselves away from the beach, and hit the road for the hour cruise up to the fishing town. The goal was to have lunch and walk around Höfn, but the town ended up larger than anticipated, so a casual walk wasn't ideal. We did have a great lunch in a tiny local spot called Hafnarbudin, and drove to a couple overlooks of the bay. Deciding this wasn't a place to spend much time, we moved on to our next stop about ten minutes further east. Vestrahorn Mountain and Stokksness beach is a small private area with beautiful landscape views and a small viking village created as a movie set many years ago. Visiting requires a short drive up a gravel road, and small entrance fee, all of which is worth it if you're in the area. This would be the furthest east we would make it on the island, and the point in which the main road turns north.
We headed west once more, following the main road all the way back to our hotel. This was the second day in a row we managed to remain completely rain-free while out exploring, yet it poured on us once we were back in the cars and driving. We were unbelievably lucky! Both of these days were in the mid 40's with no wind; basically the best weather we could ask for in mid-October in Iceland.
Once back at the hotel we enjoyed the bar, and ate sandwiches, salads, and chicken wings from the bar menu.
Once back at the hotel we enjoyed the bar, and ate sandwiches, salads, and chicken wings from the bar menu.
Now on to Iceland day 3, we were heading out of our beloved FossHotel after another night lacking in Northern Lights, but another morning with an impressive breakfast. This day was to be our second longest driving day of the trip, and full of stops, so it was going to be a long one! Our first stop was Skaftafel National Park, just up the road from the hotel. This was going to be about a half day stop, as we had two must-see attractions. Our first stop was the stunning Svartifoss Waterfall. The 80 foot tall falls isn't so much the attraction, as much as the geometric basalt columns that surround it. The hike is about 1 mile, mostly uphill, on a wide and smooth path. Some of us took a longer and more difficult trail back to the visitors center, to create a loop rather than an out and back hike.
Back at the visitors center, the other Must-See of this national park is an outlet of the Vatnajokull Glacier only about a half mile up a flat walking path. This is the largest Glacier in Europe, and covers over 3000 square miles! We hiked up the the edge of the glacier itself, but were unable to get onto the top due to a raging stream of meltwater surrounding it. We did climb around the side, and successfully make it onto the frozen edge of the glacier.
We had lunch in the cafe attached to the visitors center before hitting the road for about an hour to Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. The canyon was about 2 miles up a dirt road, and from the parking area all that is visible is a walking path straight up the side of a large hill! With some hesitation, most everyone in the group made the trek up, and were rewarded with views into a nearly 300' deep cavity with a beautiful river in the bottom. The trail continues along the canyon for many miles, but we simply headed to the first couple overlooks.
My goal is always to arrive at our lodging by dark, this day it became very apparent that wasn't going to happen (in fact, most days that didn't happen, but it's good to have goals). We still had one stop to make, and 3 hours of drive time. Skipping the last stop would've helped our ETA, but no one wanted to do that. Instead, we made a small modification to the plan, and it worked out so well!
Our last attraction of the day was to be at Reynisfjall Beach, a beautiful black sand beach with Basalt cliffs and very impressive waves. Rather than seeing it quickly, we stayed late, and watched the sunset over the water. Dinner was directly on the beach, at the Black Beach Restaurant. We had to drive an hour and a half in the dark afterward, but it was worth it!
Our last attraction of the day was to be at Reynisfjall Beach, a beautiful black sand beach with Basalt cliffs and very impressive waves. Rather than seeing it quickly, we stayed late, and watched the sunset over the water. Dinner was directly on the beach, at the Black Beach Restaurant. We had to drive an hour and a half in the dark afterward, but it was worth it!
Our home for this night and the next would be at Blue View Cabins, on the north edge of the Golden Circle, and on the outskirts of the Icelandic Highlands. We arrived well after dark, and with forehead smudges on about every one of my car windows as everyone had been looking longingly for a sign of the Northern Lights. The sky was clear, and we were in a relatively remote (albeit, not as remote as we had hoped) area... we all had high hopes for the night. We setup a plan where one person would awake every hour and check the skies.
One hour in, we got the call: Northern lights, barely visible but there, to the northwest! They were faint as faint could be, but a greenish blur across the sky was evident. Not knowing if we'd get to see any more on the trip, we all stared up and tried to get pictures.
One hour in, we got the call: Northern lights, barely visible but there, to the northwest! They were faint as faint could be, but a greenish blur across the sky was evident. Not knowing if we'd get to see any more on the trip, we all stared up and tried to get pictures.
They faded into darkness, and we faded back to sleep. The rest of the night didn't provide any more lights. I should note, the stars were quite impressive, and the edge of the milkyway was quite visible!
We awoke to a bit of a change in weather patterns! Our mid 40 degree and wind-free Iceland experience was now behind us, and a cold front pushed in low 30's and WIND. Luckily, we were still dry and snow-free, but it was about to get a little more real.
We headed out to Faxi, a small waterfall with a cafe for our breakfast and first stop, but they weren't open. Impatience set in as we waited 10 minutes after the official opening time, so we moved on to our next stop. Geysir Geothermal Area was just 20 minutes from our cabins, and provided us with a cafe for breakfast, a visitors center for an escape from the cold, and a very neat hot springs area to explore. Strikingly similar to Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park, The Geysir area also contains a geyser that spouts off regularly (every 4-8 minutes normally). We walked the main area of the park, and then a handful of us hiked up a large hill to an overlook.
We headed out to Faxi, a small waterfall with a cafe for our breakfast and first stop, but they weren't open. Impatience set in as we waited 10 minutes after the official opening time, so we moved on to our next stop. Geysir Geothermal Area was just 20 minutes from our cabins, and provided us with a cafe for breakfast, a visitors center for an escape from the cold, and a very neat hot springs area to explore. Strikingly similar to Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park, The Geysir area also contains a geyser that spouts off regularly (every 4-8 minutes normally). We walked the main area of the park, and then a handful of us hiked up a large hill to an overlook.
From Geysir, we headed just up the road to Gulfoss Waterfall. Gullfoss is 100 feet high and has the largest flow of any waterfall in Europe. There are two falls, the second into an impressive canyon.
We had lunch at the cafe attached to Gulfoss, and decided to make the trek into the highlands to see one more waterfall for the day. Haifoss waterfall is only 15 miles as the crow flies from Gulfoss, yet it's an hour and a half and 60 mile drive. Luckily, it was a stunning and spectacular drive into a vacant area of the country. The last 15 or 20 minutes was a slow going gravel road, and as we increased in elevation the wind seemed to push our cars around noticeably more. We arrived at a tiny parking lot that was empty but for a single other car. As we attempted to open our doors, we realized how hard the wind was actually blowing. Having a reasonably firm grasp on what 25 MPH wind feels like, we're going to go ahead and assume this was in the neighborhood of double that. It was amazing. Add to that the approximately 30 degree temperature, and we had quite the adventure on our hands! We couldn't help but laugh about it; it was the most wind any of us had ever experienced in our lives. We laughed, and stumbled, and pushed through, often jumping in the air to see how far the wind would push us before we landed. I'm generally not one to be fearful of cliffs; being surefooted and confident, I'll go up near the edge to see how far down it is or to get a better view. On this day though, the gusts of wind were easily pushing us a few feet in any direction before we could catch our footing... the edges of cliffs became far more serious! To take any pictures, I would have to brace myself against a rock for stability. All that being said, we laughed our way to the overlook, and were completely blown away by the view. Some of us hiked a bit up the side of the canyon and over a fence-ladder (somewhat comical in the hearty wind!), but most stayed at the first overlook. Haifoss waterfall is a collection of about 4 falls, 400 feet tall each, into a stunning and half frozen canyon. The exiting river, as well as numerous other waterfalls were all visible in the distance. To say it was spectacular would be an understatement.
Forcing our way back into our cars, we headed back to the cabins for the night. Dinner was just up the street at The Barnloft, a restaurant within a cattle farm, and home to the freshest burgers and ice cream around!
We headed back to the cabins and hit the sack. The reported 100% cloud coverage for the night led us to have no hopes in Northern Lights this evening, but as we prepared for bed, I couldn't help but notice the stars. We shut off our bedroom light, and could immidiately see the streak of green out our window! We made the frantic calls to each cabin, and got suited up to stand outside! We watched it slowly merge around for a few minutes outside, and then many more inside, before it eventually faded, and we went to sleep.
We headed back to the cabins and hit the sack. The reported 100% cloud coverage for the night led us to have no hopes in Northern Lights this evening, but as we prepared for bed, I couldn't help but notice the stars. We shut off our bedroom light, and could immidiately see the streak of green out our window! We made the frantic calls to each cabin, and got suited up to stand outside! We watched it slowly merge around for a few minutes outside, and then many more inside, before it eventually faded, and we went to sleep.
We awoke to the same weather as the previous day; cool and windy, but dry! Our first stop was at Thingvellir National Park about 45 minutes up the road, where we would first hit up the cafe for breakfast, before walking the entire area.
Thingvellir is known for a rich Icelandic history... but also for a very visible gap between the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates. We hiked the popular path between the two tectonic plates and up to Oxararfoss waterfall, which spills into the gap. While we were standing beneath the falls, an ice-dam broke free in the river above, and the flow nearly tripled in front of our eyes.
Thingvellir is known for a rich Icelandic history... but also for a very visible gap between the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates. We hiked the popular path between the two tectonic plates and up to Oxararfoss waterfall, which spills into the gap. While we were standing beneath the falls, an ice-dam broke free in the river above, and the flow nearly tripled in front of our eyes.
We had lunch in a cafe within the national park, and began the half an hour drive to the Kerid Crater. Kerid is a volcanic crater with a hiking path around the rim, as well as nearly 200 feet below around the crater lake. We walked both paths, as well as a bit of a detour around two connected smaller craters.
We wrapped up our hikes and headed west to Rekjavik, the capital of Iceland and our home for the final two nights. We arrived early to spend time in the city, but the cold and blowing wind sent us running for the nearest restaurant. We ate at an Italian restaurant, and then split up so half of our group could experience the nightlife. We went to the famous for unknown reasons Lebowski Bar (totally based off the movie The Big Lebowski), then to a very local bar. In an attempt to find a club (for a quick preview of a true European Nightclub) we ended up at two nearly vacant places. The final one reported to us that no place will have dancing on a Wednesday night. We sulkily ordered one final drink before calling it a night. We ended up making a mad dash out of the place and back to our hotel, but that's not a story for this web page! This evening and the next, we would be staying in the Hotel Leifur Eiriksson, nearly dead center in downtown Reykjavik. The building was older, and the rooms were much more reminiscent of classic European hotels (ie. large enough rooms for you, your bed, a bathroom, and nothing more!). The central location sold me, and the rooms were just fine.
The next day we split up to do our own things. This was our final day, and many wanted to spend it in Reykjavik. A few of us headed out for a final hike in the Hengill Volcano geothermal area. The weather was cold and windy once more, but the geothermal area was full of bubbling hot springs and tar pits, as well as alien looking power plant equipment. We even found a waterfall into a canyon full of geothermal 'matter'. Again, due to weather and scenery, we didn't clock many miles, but we rummaged around the area for a few hours before heading back into town for a late lunch.
The rest of our time was spent in Reykjavik, before heading to the Blue Lagoon for sunset.
After swimming into the evening, we headed back to town for a final dinner at Solon Restaurant. We made our way back to Hotel Leifur Erikson, and with thoughts of a very early flight home on our minds, we all headed to bed.
Then the frantic texts started coming in: NOTHERN LIGHTS... OUTSIDE NOW...
Then the frantic texts started coming in: NOTHERN LIGHTS... OUTSIDE NOW...
It was extraordinary; brighter than I ever thought possible, especially in town surrounded by lights.
We stayed out as long as we could, before eventually deciding we must go to bed. The lights stayed on all night, and we got to enjoy them a final time on our drive to the airport in the morning.
We stayed out as long as we could, before eventually deciding we must go to bed. The lights stayed on all night, and we got to enjoy them a final time on our drive to the airport in the morning.
To wrap this up: Iceland should be on every travelers bucket list. We saw mind blowing landscapes every day we were there, and everything we enjoyed was highly accessible. Our one week trip felt like the right amount of time, although we only saw 1/2 or less of what the Island has to offer. The summer brings better weather, but large crowds and no Northern Lights. We got lucky with the weather every single day (it should have rained on us every day, but we stayed 100% dry!) and enjoyed every stop. I'd recommend the September-October season, but just know, the weather can vary wildly!
Go there! See as much as you possibly can! Iceland will not disappoint!
Go there! See as much as you possibly can! Iceland will not disappoint!
Downloadable Itinerary Below - Trip Planning web page Here
| iceland_itinerary.xlsx |
